From the back, she was all Parisian: messy blond hair, cap-sleeved white tee worn under a scooped-back baby-doll dress, chunky platform sandals paired with ankle socks and a powder-blue Versace satchel.

But instead of lighting a cigarette , she was carefully contemplating which 100-percent organic, plant-based, gluten-free, unpasteurized, zero-additive snack to order.

These days in Paris, wellness and cleansing is the new wine and cheese.

Leaving one's hotel or Airbnb dwelling wearing sneakers — whether for a picturesque run along the quai or to withstand hours at the Louvre — is finally a la mode, and vegetarians no longer have to go hungry while their carnivore friends eat the likes of foie gras and tete de veau.

Nowhere is this change more evident than at Wild & the Moon, a veggie-pushing haven in the Marais and the setting for the aforementioned scene. Tables are wooden. Lightbulbs descend from the ceiling. Ferns drape over ceramic pots. Reggae plays softly, interrupted only by the occasional rumbling of the blender making the likes of spirulina smoothies….